Contemporary Victorian Gothic Hairstyles inspired by American Horror Story

Product & Equipment Needed-

• Tailcomb
• Hairbrush 
• Sectioning Clips
• Curling Tongs
• Bobby Pins

Method-

Preparation-

1.  Start by brushing through the hair to remove any tangles, and preheat the tongs. 
2. Then Divide the Hair at the front, create a low side parting. 
3. Curl The front of the hair by doing 3 one inch sections against the parting, and grip it with a bobby pin.
4. Then curl the hair at the side of the front of the head into either 1/2 curls, towards the head. 
5. Continue to curl the rest of the hair, in a brick patterned technique.  

Hairstyle 1 (maids style)-

1. Remove all of the Bobby Pins from the Hair, and lightly brush through the hair with your fingers. 
2. Then begin by gathering the bottom section of the hair, and rolling it against the curl. 
3. This roll should gather along the nape of the neck from one ear to the other. 
4. Pin the roll securely with Bobby Pins.
5. Gather in the front of the hair and secure that into the roll softly, careful to keep the hair loose however, so that you can create the wave down the side of the hair.
6. Using the tailcomb gently pull at the hair to give the hairstyle body and volume.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Hairstyle 2 (Glamorous)-

1. Obtain large section of curls, and with a paddle brush brush through the sections.
2. When brushing through the hair use an under and over motion so that you create larger, softer waves. 
3. Continue this with all the hair. 
4. Backcomb the roots if need be, I backcombed the roots around the front of the head so that the hair frames the face and gives it more volume. 
5. Spray the hair to set it. 

Hairstyle 3 (Shaken out)-

1. The only step for this one, is to up end the hair, and shake!
2. You can use a wide tooth comb to brush through the hair if need be. 

Health & Safety

• Be careful that any electrical equipment is away from liquid. 
• Be careful not to burn the model or yourself with the hot equipment.
• Leave a finger width between the models scalp and the tongs.
• Cover the face when using the hairspray
• Make sure that you spray at least 10cm away from the head. 
• When applying pins, do so at an angle, so as not to jab the models head.

Dark Lips

Products & Equipment used-

• Lip Liner
• Kryolan Lip Palette
• Angled Brush 
• Tissue
• Cotton bud

Method-

1. First begin by having clean fresh lips ready to apply the make up.
2. Start off by lining the lips with the lip liner, filling in only a samll amount of the edges in. 
3. Then fill in the lips with the Dark lipstick and an angled Brush. 
4. Blot the lips with a tissue and repeat the process.
5. Fix up the edges by using a cotton bud. 

Dark eyes

Products and Equipment used-

• Brushes
• Illamasqua eyeshadows
• Kryolan eyeshadows
• Black Kohl Pencil 
• Mascara 
• Mascara wand
• Transluscent powder
• Apron

Method-

1. Begin by making sure that you are working on a clean area, clean the eye area so that it is ready for application.
2. To begin, First apply transluscent powder underneath the eyes, with the powder puff, to catch any eyeshadow that may fall.
3. You first want to start off with a lighter shade of eyeshadow onto the lid, and you can build up your colour from that. 
4. I started with a matte brown toned eyeshadow.
5. When i applied that shade, I then went a shade darker, this time it was a rich, alomost reddish, brown tone.
6. I then applied a bronze/ gold, colour over the top to finish it off. 
7. Next I applied eyeliner onto the bottom waterline and to the top lid, only slightly. 
8. Then I Applied the Mascara onto the eyelashes.
9. Next i filled in the eyebrows with the kryolan eyeshadows, i used an angled brush a a dark brown shadow. 
10. Finally with a big fluffy brush, brush away the transluscent powder underneath the eyes, 

Health & Safety-

• Take care when working around the eyes. 
• Make sure that the client is wearing an apron

Estella Final look

When creating my Estella look, I intended to portray her as the vengeful woman who lures men, she is very sophisticated and mysterious. I chose to do subtle makeup and an elegant up-do.

Products &Equipment- 

• Kryloan Supracolor (skin colour)
• Spatula
• Palette
• Apron
• Kryolan Lip palette
• Kryolan Blusher palette (Orangey-brown &peach shades)
• Brushes
• Transluscent Powder
• Mascara
• Mascara wand
• Kryolan Kohl pencil (brown)
• Illamasque eyeshadow (nude brown)
• Kryolan Concealer palette

Method-

1. Make sure that the client has a clean fresh face ready for application.
2. Then With the palette and spatula, mix togetehr the correct shade of skin tone base for the model.
3. Apply the base onto the model making sure that it is blended onto the neck and ears.
4. Set the Base with the Transluscent powder, 
5. Then to contour, using the brown shade, and a fairly small fluffy brush, contour the cheekbones very lightly. 
6. Then apply the peach blush to teh apples of the cheeks, 
7. Apply the nude brown eyeshadow onto the eyelids, and blend in with a soft brush. 
8. With the brown Kohl pencil, lightly trace the top eyelid, and then again on the bottom waterline.
9. With the brown Kohl pencil again, fill in the eyeebrows, and smooth out with the mascara wand. 
10. Apply mascara onto the lashes. 
11. For the final step, apply the lip colour, i chose to use a faint pink tone mixed wwith a small amount of orange.   

 (for the Hair Method go to 'Estella Hairstyle')

Evaluation-

I feel that my Estella look turned out better than expected, i am very pleased with the results. I think that i managed to achieve a look that was close to my face and hair chart designs, which i am pleased with. The makeup, I feel, portrays the character well, and have nothing negative to say about the makeup. On the other hand, the Hair, i feel, wasn't as flawless as the makeup. I think that i should have focused more on the smaller details, like getting each side of the hairstyle symmetrical and making sure that the Flowers were tucked neatly into the pin curls. However, besides these minor mistakes i am extremely pleased with the end result and overall look. 

Health & Safety-

• Make sure that the model is wearing an apron to protect their clothing.
• When using electrical equipment (tongs) make sure that it is not near any liquid. 
• Be careful not to burn the model or yourself with the tongs.
• Take care when working around the eyes
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Miss Havisham Continuity look

For my Miss Havisham Look, I decided to portray her as the woman she became after she'd been jilted at the alter. So she is very ragged, old, almost fragile in a way. I wanted to portray this by applying the Theatrical ageing technique, create the illusion of makeup running down her face, and give her an almost dusty grey complexion.

Facechart

Products-

• Spatula
• Palette
• Brushes
• Kryolan Supracolor (skin colour, white, black and red)
• Transluscent powder
• illamasqua Black eyeshadow
• Mascara
• Mascara wand
• Illamasqua red lipstick 
• Stipple sponge
• Curling tongs
• Hairspray 
• Bobby pins 
• V- Pins
• Hair clips 
• Hairbrush 
• Tailcomb
• Dry Shampoo
• Accessories (veil, Hairclip)

front and back Hair chart

Makeup Method-

1. First begin with a clean, fresh Face ready for application.
2. Next you want to mix together the base foundation for the model, to do this you need to go 2-3 shades lighter than the natural skin tone. 
3. You then need to mix in a small amount of black and white to give the skin a grey tinge to the look. 
4. Make sure that you blend the base down the neck and over the ears. 
5. Then next step is to apply the ageing technique. add a bit more black to the foundation base mixture and then begin to add the wrinkles onto the forehead, nose, chin and eyes, and hollow out the eyes and cheeks by using the base for contour. 
6. Apply the translucent powder onto a powder puff and transfer it gently onto the face and neck, then using a powder brush brush over it making sure that you cover all the face so that the foundation is not dewy. 
7. Apply the base colour to the Mascara wand and brush it through the eyebrows, making sure that the are covered thoroughly and left looking unkempt also.
8. Using the stipple sponge, dip it into the red supracolor and then apply it to the apples of the cheeks. 
9. Next apply black eyeshadow to the eyes making sure that they look smudged. 
10. Apply red lipstick to the lips an using your finger, smudge it out.
11. Finally apply mascara to the eyelashes.

(For Miss Havisham Hairstyle see 'Miss Havisham Hairstyle)

Evaluation- 

I found that for my miss Havisham Continuity look, it was alot harder than I initially thought that it would be. I feel that my designs were not the most efficient or managable to fit in with the brief. In order to create a perfect contiuity look, the designs have to be simple and easy to produce again, whereas mine were a bit more detailed an involved alot of smudging which is hard to reacreate exactly the same. That being said, i do, however, feel that with this aspect in mine, I managed to get the 2nd look as close to the original one as i could with a few minor errors. Overall, I am fairly happy with the outcome of the look. Although if i were to change a few things i would firstly change the makeup designs, id make it easier to recreate the look again and simple to follow. I think i would also make the look a little bit less dramatic, i feel that this look is more suited for theatre, not Television.

Continuity look 1-

Continuity look 2-

Creating Light Scaring, using Molds, How to attach to the skin and how to Colour

Products-

• Wound Prosthetic (Mold wound) 
• Pros aide Adhesive 
• Witch Hazel 
• Cotton Buds 
• Spatula 
• Palette 
• Stipple Sponge 
• Fake Blood 
• Kryolan Supracolor Grease paints (reds, black, purples etc.) 
• Transluscent Powder 
• Brushes 

Method-

1. First, make sure that the area on the Skin is ready for application, and clean.
2. Next, cut the mold to the right shape and size and make sure that it is an appropriate size the area you want to apply it to.
3. Apply a thin layer of the Pros aide onto the area of the skin and the back of the Prosthetic.
4. Attach the prosthetic to the skin, make sure that you press firmly down on it, taking care to make sure that all the edges are also stuck down onto the skin.
5. Using a Cotton bud, and Witch Hazel, rub gently around the edges of the mold, the edges will dissolve away ensuring that the mold blends nicely onto the skin.
6. Next, apply transluscent powder to the mould, this will get rid of any stickiness caused by the witch hazel.
7. The next step is to add texture and depth to the prosthetic, apply red and purple toned Supracolors. To enhance the wound start adding small amounts of black.
9. Spray the Fixative spray to the prosthetic.
11. Finally, apply some fake blood to the wound to complete the look. 

Health & Safety-

• Make sure that the client is wearing an apron, to protect their clothing. 
• Be careful of the pressure you use when applying the mould. 
• When spraying the fixative, make sure that you are not spraying too close. 
• Be careful if working on/ around the face. 

Creating Burns with different materials

When creating burns, you need to be aware of the types of burns there are, and which one is the most suitable for your needs. the types of Burns are:

• Superficial burns- These normally only effect the surface of the skin, the top layers look red, and sensitive, and after a few days will peel off. Sunburn is one type of superficial burn. It also will not leave any scarring.
• Partial Thickness- This causes deeper damage, the skin blisters, and bleeds. There is lots of redness and swelling, the deeper tissue however is unharmed and can heal without scarring if the area is small. 
• Full thickness- This damages the deeper layers of the skin, The skin will either appear white or waxy, or completely charred black. There will be little to no pain as the nerves have been destroyed. 
• Electrical burns- This causes damage only on the inside, however redness will appear on the point of contact with the skin. 

Products and Equipment used-

• Apron
• Gelatine
• Latex
• Kryolan supracolor
• Brushes
• Transluscent Powder
• Powder puff
• Spatula 
• Palette
• Bowl 
• pin
• Fake blood
• Fake Pus
• Cotton Buds

Burns using Gelatine Method-

1. First clean the area of the skin that you want to use, so that it is fresh and ready for you to use.
2. Then heat up the gelatine with water (either in the microwave of by using hot water).
3. Wait a few minutes for it to cool down slightly, the consistency should be runny but still fairly thick. 
4. Then apply the Gelatine onto the skin where you want the burn to be and keep working the gelatine until it has created the blisterig that you want. 
5. Leave the Gelatine to dry thoroughly. 
6. Apply Red Kryolan Supracolor first around the Gelatine area then onto the gelatine burn, don't worry about covering the whole of the gelatine surface though. 
7. Then add hint of purple and darker tones to the wound,on the areas you haven't covered, this gives the illusion of depth.
8. Next apply black Supracolor to the wound, to create the illusion of charred black skin.  
9. Using a baby bud/ needle, rub, and pick at the gelatine to give the wound the appearance of blistering. 
10. Apply blood and pus products to the wound to finish it off. 

Burns using Latex Method-

1. Begin by starting off with a clean area of the skin.
2. using a Spatula, apply a layer of the Latex onto the skin. 
3. Wait for the Latex to dry before applying the second and third Layers.
4. Next, you want to give the Latex wound some texture, depth, and authenticity, to do this you need to add some colour. 
5. Use the Kryolan supracolours (reds, purples, etc.) onto the latex and around the skin to blend the latex onto the area
6. To give the Wound a bit more of a realistic quality, you can push ad mould the latex, to give the wound a blistered look. 
7. use a pin to lift up the latex, and to create pockets you can apply the blood/ pus to, to make it appear like the wound is oozing. 
8. Apply the Blood and Pus for the final touches. 

Health and Safety-

• Make sure that you have patch tested all of the products on the model beforehand. 
• Make sure that you are observant to any contra- indications
• When using tools such as a needle, be very careful when working close to the skin. 
• Make sure that the Gelatine is not too hot when applying to the skin. 

Estella Hairstyle

Product & Equipment needed-

• Bobby Pins
• V- Pins
• Hairspray
• Hairbrush
• Tailcomb
• Hairband
• Accessories (Flowers)
• Sectioning Clips 
• Curling tongs

Method-

1. Begin by brushing out the Hair so all the tangles and knots are removed and it is ready for application. 
2. With the tailcomb, separate a small portion of hair at the crown of the head that, and then divide that down the middle and with sectioning clips pin it out the way.
3. The next step is to then gther the rest of the hair and with the hairband tie the hair into a fairly loose ponytail, make sure that it is positioned at the center of the back of the head. 
4. With the Curling tongs, Curl the portion of hair from the ponytail. 
5. When the ponytail is curled, with your bobby pins, pin curl the curls, and then pin them down, when arranging the pin curls from the ponytail, make sure that you angle them in different directions. 
6. When the ponytail is all pinned up, the next step is to curl the front portion of the hair, each section should be curled into three vertical parts.
7. Gently back comb the roots of the hair at the top center part of the head. 
8. Then leaving out the curls beside the ears, gently pin back the other part into the pincurls of the ponytail. making sure that with the tail comb you smooth over the front of the hair, where you have backcombed 
9. Do the same to the other side. 
10. Hairspray the hair all over.
11. The final step is to apply the accessories into the pin curls at the back of the hair.

Health & Safety- 

• Take care when using the electrical equipment that is not near any liquid. 
• Be careful not to burn yourself or the client with the tongs, make sure that there is a fingers width between the tongs and the clients scalp at all times. 
• When using the hairspray make sure that the eyes are covered, and that you are spraying at least 10cm away from the head. 
• Apply the pins at an angle so that you don't accidentally jab the model. 

Bruises and Black eyes

When creating bruising on someone, the one question that you need to ask yourself is how old do you want the bruise to look? Bruises change their shape and colour throughout the healing process, so when you are creating the bruise, you need to know how old you want it to be. here are a few tips; the old the bruise the cooler the colours you will need (blues greens, yellows) the fresher the bruise the warmer the colours (reds, purples).

Products & Equipment needed- 

1. Kryolan grease paints (reds, blues, purples, greens, and yellows)
2. Vaseline
3. stipple sponge
4. brushes
5. Spatula
6. Palette
7. Apron

Method for old Black eye-

1. First clean the are around the eye so that it is fresh and ready for makeup application. 
2. you then need to get the colours you want to use, i will be using blues greens and yellows, for and old black eye look. 
3. then using a brush i applied the deeper colours into the corner of the eye (blue) and traced the natural circle under the eye to emphasise the bruising around the socket.
4. I then used my finger to blend in the colour, and look a bit smoother. 
5. With my finger again i applied the lighter colours (greens and yellows) onto the eyelid and under the eye. 
6. For the final touches i applied the vaseline to the the black eye bruising a stretched and shiny look. 

Method for Bruising-

1. I first cleaned the area of the skin,
2. Then i got a few various shades of reds and purples onto my palette. 
3. then using my finger i lightly dabbed the reds onto the area, initially creating the shape of teh bruise i want. i made sure that some areas had a deeper tone of red than others; this was to create the illusion of the impact for how the bruise was acquired. 
4. I then started to dab areas with the purple colours. 
5. For the final touches I used the stipple sponge to scrape lightly the red grease paint over the top, for the illusion of scratches. 

With the Scratches

Health & safety-

• When working around the eyes, take care not to get any of the product into the eye. 
• Also be careful f the pressure you're using around thee eye; you do not want to be too hard. 
• When using the stipple sponge as well, you do not want to be using too much pressure.
  
  

Miss Havisham Hairstyle

Products & Equipment needed- 

• Hairbrush 
• Tailcomb 
• Hairspray
• Dry shampoo
• Bobby pins 
• V-shape pins
• Curling tongs 
• Hair band 
• Sectioning Clips
• Veil/ accessories

Method-

1. Firstly, brush the hair out so that it is tangle free and ready to use. 
2. I began by first, dividing the hair it 3 section; 2 at the front and 1 and the back. 
3. to do this I used the tailcomb and created a middle parting. And then about 2/3 inches in to the center of the head, i took the parting down toward the ears and made sure it was even on both sides. 
4. Secure the front two section back with the sectioning clips. 
5. For the next step, I tied the 3rd piece of hair at the back of the head, into a Ponytail. 
6. I used the tail comb to help smooth back the hair on the surface of the head and to make it easier for me to gather it. 
7. I then used a hairband and tied it back. 
8.  Using the end of the tailcomb, I used it to create a bit of slack on the Ponytail, by pulling up the hair on the surface of the head at the top and underneath of the ponytail. I also did this to keep in theme with Miss Havishams old, ragged look. 
9. I then used the Curling tongs to curl the ponytail. 
10. Once the whole of the ponytail was curled, I then, messily, pinned the curls back onto the head using bobby pins and V-shape pins. 
11. I made sure that i did this quite messily with no particular direction or shape in mind.  
12. Once all the pony tail was pinned back, the next step is to curl the front sections. 
13. I curled the front part of the hair section at a time, creating about 3/4 Curls for each side. 
14. i made sure that whe i was curling i was curling in the direction of the models face. This is do that at the root of the hairs, it stays down flat on the head. 
15. Once the whole of the front part of the hair is curled, i used the hairspray to spray the top of the hair and with the comb, i combed it down, to keep it flat on the head. This was to give the character the appearance of greasy hair, and it being heavy and weighed down. 
16. For the final touches i sprayed the hair with dry shampoo, fairly close to the head, so that the white powder from the shampoo will sit on the hair and give the appearance of grey hair. 
17. I then applied the veil on the top of the head with the 'tiara' clip. 

 Health & Safety- 

• Be careful not to tug too hard when brushing the hair through
• Take care when using the Tongs; try not to hold the too close to the head/ scalp. 
• When they are resting on the bench, make sure that the cable is tucked away and you are not abl to trip over it. 
• Also make sure that the curlers are sat sturdy on the bench, and that there is no risk of them falling off. 
• Give the curlers time to cool down when they are finished with use. 
• When using the pins make sure that they are clipped into the hair at an angle, and not straight in. 
• When spraying the hair with the shampoo, or the hairspray, make sure that the face and eyes are covered and protected. 
• When using the hairspray make sure that you spray and least 10/15 cm away from the hair. 

Cuts, Scratches and Abrasions

When creating cuts and scratches you need to first determine the situation and accident the model was in to obtain these injuries. You need to ask yourself a few questions; how did the fall? which direction did the fall in? which direction would the injury go in? is the injury placement, size and direction correct? When you have determined that the injury is in keeping with the accident and will be appropriate the you can start working.

Products & Equipment needed-

• Apron
• Spatula
• Palette
• stipple sponge
• Kryolan Putty/ Plastici
• Kryolan Grease paints (various shades of red and Purple)
• Kryolan fake blood
• Brushes 

Method- 

1. First make sure that the surface of the skin you want to use is clean and prepared.
2. Scrape the amount of putty you need out from the container with the spatula and roll it into a long sausage shape. If you need it larger then keep adding more putty until you have the right shape and size. Make sure that it is slightly larger than the actual size you want, 
3. Then place the putty onto the skin in the position you want it in.  
4. Using the Spatula again, begin to scrape the outer sides of the putty down, and smooth onto the skin.
5. Keep doing this around the whole of the putty until it is fixed securely onto the skin.
6. Clean off the spatula, and then make a cut in the putty, in the correct position appropriate fro the injury. 
7. Once youve made a slit, smooth it our once more to make it appear a bit more cleaner and realistic. 
8. The next step is to then apply colour to the injury, so using a brush I blended different shades of red around the injury, I made sure the darker shades of red were closer to the wound. 
9. Then you can begin to blend in shads of Purple as well
10. Once you have finished applying colour to the wound, the next step is the blood, I did the just by applying the fake blood into the actual wound (the slit that I made), and letting it drip naturally how it would. 
11. For final touches dab a small amount of light red around the wound, and then getting the stipple sponge lightly scrape some of the blood over the top to give the appearance of scratches. Dont go over the top with this, as it can quickly look unrealistic. 

Health & safety-

• Make sure that you are careful with the pressure when applying the putty. 
• Also be careful of the pressure when using the stipple sponge. 
• If the placement of the wound is on the face, make sure that the eyes, mouth and nose are protected. 
• when removing the wound, make sure it is done slowly with warm water. 

 

Early Victorian Hair

Victorian Hairtyles in the early century differ from Hairstyles in the late century with aspects like; Cover ears using plaits or curls, Middle smoothed- out parting, and hair gathered in a bun. The overall hairstyle is smooth and neat, appearing sophisticated yet feminine.

Products and Equipment-

• Tail comb
• Normal Comb
• Hairbrush 
• Hairbands
• Bobby Pins
• V-shape Pins
• Curling Iron
• Sectioning clips

Method-

1. Begin by brushing the hair out thoroughly to get rid of all tangles. 
2. Once that is done, get the Tail comb and separate the hair into 3 sections; 2 at the top and 1 at the back. 
3. To divide the sections first start by defining the middle parting. Then find a point just behind the ear and joint that point along the top of the head until its joined to the middle parting at the top. 
4. Repeat this separation on the other side of the front of the head. 
5. Use the sectioning clips to hold the sections in place. 
6. You should be left with the back portion if the hair out. 
7. using the comb, comb the portion of hair out smooth and gather it into a ponytail with your hand.
8. Using the first hairband, tie the ponytail up, trying to keep the surface of the hair as smooth and bump- free as possible. 
9. Then twist the ponytail and wrap it around the hair band, to create a bun. 
10. Fix this bun by tying another Hairband around it, make sure that it is as tight and secure as you can make it. 
11. Insert any bobby pins if needed to fix stray and loose hairs. 
12. Then for the front portion of the hair, you need to curl it with the tongs. 
13. To do this you need to first start with a small portion of hair at the bottom, and work your way up towards the center/ middle part of the hair.
14.  When you are ready to curl the portion of hair coming from the center/ middle parting of the head, you need to make sure that you do not curl all the way and leave 2/3 inches of hair straight from the roots.
15. When curling, you need to make sure that you are taking notice of the direction of the curlers and the tension you are holding the hair is tight. 
16. Alternatively, you can plait the front portion of the hair, to do this, you first need to make sure that the hair is combed out and smooth and flat against the head. 
17. Then pulling down low on the hair, start to plait the hair; make sure that you are aware of the direction the plait is heading and that it is the way you intend. 
18. When you get to the end of the plait, loop it over the ear and attach it with a V-shape pin into the bun. 
19. Use hairspray to fix and stray hairs for the final touches. 

Health and Safety-

• when working on the hair, make sure that you do not pull too tight on the hair. 
• Be careful when curling the models hair with the tongs; be aware of how close you hold the tongs to the head. 
• Make sure that you leave a fingers width gap between the tongs and the head. 
• When applying V-shape pins to the style, attach them at an angle and not straight in.
• When hair spraying, spray from around 15cm distance to the model. 
• Do not spray at the front of the hair with out covering the face.